Philly has the cheesesteak. Chicago has the Italian beef. LA has the French dip, New Orleans has the poโ€™boy (and the muffaletta) Baltimore has the pit beef โ€“ even Pittsburgh has that sandwich with the french fries in it.

You get it, lots of cities have a famous sandwich named after them. Itโ€™s probably the fifth or sixth thing that makes a city feel like a city, behind airports, hospitals, universities, sports franchises, and such.

All of which got us to thinking: What is the Fresno sandwich? Is it a torta? A banh mi? If Fresno had a sandwich, what would it be?ย 

The tri-tip sandwich certainly feels like it would rank high on the list of potentials.

Tri tip, an odd, triangular shaped cut of bottom sirloin (sort of near the cow’s hip) has been claimed by a handful of butchers and pit masters everywhere from Long Beach to Alameda, but Santa Maria seems to have won the marketing war. Whatever the true story, it seems clear that Central California is the epicenter of the tri-tip belt, and it runs right through Fresno.

A truly transcendent tri-tip sandwich seems like it could be our thing. Should be our thing. Soโ€ฆ is it?

To try to answer this question, I surveyed the top contenders from Yelp, Reddit, and The Fresno Beeโ€™s reader poll, trying to be as comprehensive as possible in the research (within reason). In the course of this research, I did discover that, if not a true โ€œFresno sandwich,โ€ there certainly is a Fresno house style when it comes to tri-tip sandwiches.

That style is: Sliced tri tip on a sort of sub-shaped French roll (as opposed to a round Kaiser). Barbecue sauce is often included, or at least available as a condiment; veggies almost never are.

If youโ€™ll pardon the editorializing, Fresno, I think we can do better. 

A sandwich should have, at minimum, a spread and a vegetable, to qualify as a sandwich. Sponge, moisture, savory filling, crunch โ€“ thatโ€™s the classic sandwich quadrifecta. Sure, a Philly cheese steak squeaks by (just barely) on the strength of calling the cheese a โ€œspreadโ€ and assuming grilled onions or peppers are standard, but otherwise pretty much all the famous sandwiches follow these basic guidelines.

Does a tri-tip sandwich have to be just meat and bread? How about some onions, some pickled or sauteed veg (jalapeรฑos? Fresno chilis?)? Maybe escabeche, or ooh, some green chile? And what about a spread or a sauce? Garlic, horseradish, aioli, a chimichurriโ€ฆ Iโ€™m just spitballing here. At worst, our tri-tip sandwiches feel like the bread is just a place setting for the meat. With some gloppy barbecue sauce tossed in as an afterthought in case the meat isnโ€™t good.

Seems like we could do more. But fine, enough with my wishcasting, letโ€™s play it as it lays.

In fairness to our fair city, some of these sandwiches do have a spread and a vegetable, at least as an option. Others managed to be shockingly good despite their minimalism, possibly throwing cold water on my notions of what qualifies for sandwich-hood. Broadly speaking the quality was high — to the point that even the โ€œworstโ€ tri tip sandwiches on this list were still pretty good. 

Know of a great one that we missed? Let us know!

โ€“

Honorable Mention/Unranked:

Chuckโ€™s BBQ/Chuck and Jennyโ€™s BBQ & Smokehouse

Chuck and Jennyโ€™s BBQ, tucked into a corner next to the Clovis Culinary Center and the Breakfast Factory, opened in 2021. It shares both a sign and a lineage with Chuckโ€™s BBQ, which has been a catering and barbecue operation since 1999. Chuck Evans was the original pitmaster/caterer of Chuck’s BBQ, and Jenny is his daughter, Jenny Evans, with whom he opened the Chuck and Jenny’s storefront. They specialize in ribs, pork, chicken, brisket and tri-tip, smoked with wood from fruit trees. The door is on the shadowy side of the building so sometimes it looks closed, but you can usually tell itโ€™s open by the smoky smell.

The sandwich

The tri-tip sandwich (maybe brisket?) from Chuck's BBQ in Clovis, California.
Credit: Vince Mancini

$17. Sticky french roll with a slash down the middle, toasted in garlic butter, meat, choice of BBQ sauce on the sandwich or on the side. 

Review

The sandwich arrives with five rectangular slices of thick, tender, heavily marbled meat that Iโ€™m 90% sure is brisket. And I say this with the conviction of a man who sampled about 15 different tri-tip sandwiches the same week. 

The tri-tip sandwich (maybe brisket?) from Chuck's BBQ in Clovis, California.
Credit: Vince Mancini

Unfortunately, itโ€™s very good. It is so good, my god. The meat is so tender and juicy and positively melts in your mouth. That the sandwich soaks up some of that juice and adds toastiness and a hint of garlic elevates the experience. Is a brisket sandwich actually better than plain brisket? Discuss. 

All of this presents a dilemma: do I give the restaurant credit for knowing my secret heart, presenting me with a sandwich that was not what I ordered but was nonetheless a revelation? Or, do I knock them down a peg, both for serving the wrong thing and for making me feel like tri tip, the thing Iโ€™d set out to rank and celebrate, was a lesser meat? I mean if a brisket sandwich is this good, why rank tri tips? Is this too existential? 

Anyway, great sandwich. Unfortunately for the purposes of this ranking, Iโ€™m pretty sure it wasnโ€™t tri tip. I will definitely be back for it.

13. Dog House Grillย 

Inside Dog House Grill lunch rush Fresno, California.
Inside Dog House Grill during the lunch rush. Credit: Vince Mancini

Dog House Grill, across from the SaveMart Center next to Fresno State, is basically a Fresno institution (also with locations in SLO, Cambria, and Bakersfield). They showed up on almost every list of โ€œbest tri-tip sandwichโ€ I read for research (not to mention the occasional โ€œmust try in Fresnoโ€ lists) and placed third in The Fresno Beeโ€™s reader poll of best tri-tip sandwiches earlier this year. They celebrated their 20th anniversary in 2024, and thereโ€™s a line out the door pretty much every day at lunch time.ย 

Despite all of that, I was actually a Dog House virgin. My take, as a first-timer? This is an extremely mid sandwich. Quite possibly a landmark in the annals of mid-ness.

The sandwich

Tri tip sandwich from Dog House Grill in Fresno
The tri-tip sandwich from Dog House Grill (it does photograph well). Credit: Vince Mancini

$17. Comes on a toasted french roll with bbq sauce. The tri tip is sliced medium thick.

Review

The toasted french roll is nice, and the bread, soft but with a nice exterior crunch, is probably the best thing about it. The meat itself is tender and moist, but itโ€™s underseasoned, and doesn’t have much in the way of char or smoke flavor. Not that you could really tell, since itโ€™s also covered in too much sweet barbecue sauce.

All I could really taste was โ€œsweet.โ€ Itโ€™s messy and sticky in a way thatโ€™s more annoying than decadent, and the sauce feels more afterthought than a feature of the sandwich. I want to be able to enjoy a sandwich without this many napkins. Or, if itโ€™s going to be this messy, it should be better. (Some sandwiches are worth eating over the sink, others not).

Itโ€™s sweet, filling, and feels like a good value, but thatโ€™s about it. I certainly wouldnโ€™t send it back, but againโ€ฆmid.

12. Maw nโ€™ Paw BBQ

Maw n Paw BBQ Clovis, CA
Credit: Vince Mancini

Maw nโ€™ Paw has a smoker that greets you in the parking lot and a sort of janky sign that advertises โ€œ4 Generations of SLOW SMOKED Kentucky Style Barbecueโ€ out front. It seemed like a good omen, the kind of funky sign that says โ€œwe have really good food.โ€

Per its opening notice in the Bee, Bryan McCutchen and Eli Argueta opened it in 2011, with a plan to specialize in “low and slow” barbecue, including an 18-hour brisket.

I liked the vibe instantly. And even during the lunch rush, my sandwich was served so fast I barely had time to sit down.

The sandwich

Tri-tip sandwich from Maw n Paw BBQ in Clovis
The tri-tip sandwich from Maw n’ Paw BBQ. Credit: Vince Mancini

$12.49, with side included (!!). Served on a sesame seed hot dog bun with lots of thin sliced meat. They have three types of sauces: sweetie, smoky, and hottie.

The review

When my โ€œsandwichโ€ came out, I understood why Iโ€™d gotten it so fast. It was less a sandwich than a pile of meat with an untoasted bun on the side (it was nicely wrapped). More of a โ€œmake your ownโ€ situation here. The meat was nicely seasoned and smoky, if a little on the dry side. 

I tried some of the smoky barbecue sauce, which was very good, but this just isnโ€™t really a sandwich. It was, however, the cheapest sandwich sampled, and a good value, all things considered. The potato salad was also notably excellent, sweet and with crunchy bits of relish in there (which I always appreciate). 

I liked the vibe and the sides here a lot, but it doesnโ€™t seem like tri-tip sandwiches are really their thing. I’ll probably be back to try the brisket.

11. Butcher Boss

Butcher Boss BBQ, Madera.
Credit: Vince Mancini

Opened in 2024, Butcher Boss is one of the combination grill/high-end butcher shops that have become popular in the last few years, selling everything from meat to some limited produce to seasonings, sauces, and grilling supplies. 

Butcher Boss Sign Madera
Credit: Vince Mancini

The sandwich

They offer a tri-tip sandwich with barbecue sauce for $14.99, and a โ€œgreen chile tri-tip Phillyโ€ with provolone, peppers, and onions for $18.99. Both served on a smooth, hoagie-style bun that looks like a cross between French roll and pretzel bun. 

The Green Chile Tri-Tip Philly, from Butcher Boss in Madera
The Green Chili Philly from Butcher Boss. Credit: Vince Mancini

The review

This was another fun little place I wouldnโ€™t have known about before I started working on this list. They had a nice selection and a tidy, welcoming atmosphere โ€“ only slightly dampened by the fact that there were two different songs competing for air on two separate speakers (I donโ€™t know how people can stand this, it makes me lose my mind). 

I opted for the green chile tri-tip Philly because I thought it was a cool idea, and sounded less boring than another bread, meat, and bbq sauce sandwich. That may have been a mistake. It was a little bland, a little too greasy, and desperately needed spice. Mostly I just tasted cheese. The tri-tip was very moist and decently tender though. Possibly a case of ordering the wrong thing.

10. Smokin Woods

Smokin Woods BBQ truck in Fresno, CA
Credit: Vince Mancini

Smokin Woods began as a pop-up and catering business in Oakland in 2013 before opening in the brewery district in Fresno in 2022. Currently serving out of a truck, theyโ€™re in the process of moving to a small permanent structure on Fulton Street.

The sandwich

Smokin Woods tri-tip sandwich Fresno, CA
Credit: Vince Mancini

$18. Medium thin slices of tri-tip on a French roll with choice of BBQ sauce. 

Review

This one is a textbook example of a just-bread-and-meat sandwich. The meat itself is super peppery and flavorful — probably the most peppery of any of the tri tips I tasted, which isn’t a bad thing. The meat is moist enough that I donโ€™t entirely miss a spread, but it’s a little on the chewier side. Some of it was sliced with the grain which probably made it slightly chewier (tri tipโ€™s shape is a problem for sandwiches in general, since even when you slice it โ€œcorrectly,โ€ you get two cross sections of a triangle that decrease in size). Overall, flavorful meat and decent bread, but a touch dry. 

9. The Grill at the Meat Market

Meat Market Exterior, Fresno, CA
Credit: Vince Mancini

What was I saying about the high end butcher shop/grill trend? The Meat Market might be one of the original innovators in this space, with a butcher business dating to 1976.

A profile in The Fresno Bee described owner (and second generation meat guy) Jeffrey Aivazian as a “sausage sculptor” all the way back in 1979. Jeffrey passed the business on to his son, Mark, some time before Jeffrey’s death in 2017.

The Grill, where they serve prepared meats and sandwiches, isn’t as old as the market itself, but dates back to at least 2011. Nowadays you can buy some steaks and pre-marinated kabobs or chicken and grab a sandwich to go at the same spot (though the grill and butcher shop do have different entrances at the Alluvial location).

Pick up window at the Grill at the Meat Market, Fresno, CA
Pick-up window at The Grill at the Meat Market. Credit: Vince Mancini

The sandwich

Tri-tip sandwich from The Grill at Meat Market, Fresno
The tri-tip sandwich from The Grill at Meat Market. Credit: Vince Mancini

$12.99, for a pressed tri-tip on a french roll, with optional condiments: grilled onions, grilled bell peppers, mayo, mustard, BBQ sauce, au jus, or fresh horseradish.

Review

Big bonus points for all the veg and spread options, even if you sort of have to invent your own. More bonus points for having au jus and horseradish as two of the options. I chose grilled onions, grilled peppers, and fresh horseradish. They panini grill the bread, which is a nice touch. 

The tri-tip itself is very lean, but super tender, seasoned just right, and very flavorful. Sadly, Iโ€™m forced to deduct major points for the โ€œfresh horseradishโ€ they advertised turned out to be a single serving packet of Heinz that I had to squirt on myself. Donโ€™t make me squirt my own! If this is a squirt-my-own situation, you gotta warn me.

The Grill at Meat Market tri-tip sandwich, with horseradish sauce packet.
Credit: Vince Mancini

This is mostly a fantastic sandwich. But I have to knock it down a few slots over the sauce packet. Were they out of sauce that day? Say that. Or just squirt the sauce on there and throw the packet away. Is this too harsh? Sorry, but I cannot sanction a surprise sauce packet.

8. Heirloom

Heirloom in Fresno California (exterior)
Credit: Vince Mancini

What accolade hasnโ€™t Heirloom received, since opening at the Park Crossing Center in 2019? Itโ€™s a certified crowd pleaser, as evidenced by the frequently long lines (which will hopefully even out some when they open that new location in Clovis). It was actually a surprise for me to learn that they also have a tri-tip sandwich โ€“ number eight in the Fresno Beeโ€™s readers poll. It also got a mention in a Reddit thread about tri tip sandwiches in Fresno. We had to include it. 

The sandwich

Tri-tip sandwich from Heirloom, Fresno, CA
The tri-tip sandwich from Heirloom. Credit: Vince Mancini

$15.50, served on a garlic French roll, with tri-tip thatโ€™s either heavily dressed or actually stewed in a sweet red barbecue sauce.

Review

The garlic roll is a nice touch (garlic is canon in tri-tip rubs), with meat thatโ€™s tender and not too chewy. It seems like the meat was actually stewed in the sauce, or at least theyโ€™re so well incorporated that they feel like one entity (and the sauce stays in the sandwich without glopping out the sides).

Iโ€™m still biased against just-bbq-sauce-and-meat sandwich, but this feels a little more deliberate and composed at least. Where a lot of these feel like barbecue with some bread, this one is distinctly a sandwich. It sort of reminds me of a fancy Sloppy Joe โ€“ a little sweet for me, but a pretty good sandwich. 

7. Cosmopolitan Tavern & Italian Grill

Cosmopolitan Tavern exterior, Fresno, CA
Credit: Vince Mancini

Speaking of Fresno institutions you may or may not have known have tri-tip sandwiches, thereโ€™s Cosmopolitan Tavern, which has been a business since 1904, a restaurant since 1933, and in its current location since 2016 (they moved away from Fresno and G streets to make way for high-speed rail construction). Itโ€™s a friendly place for a nice lunch with a full bar.

The sandwich

Tri-tip sandwich at Cosmopolitan, Fresno
The tri-tip sandwich at Cosmopolitan. Credit: Vince Mancini

$10.95 (half), $13.75 (whole). Served on a french roll with mayo, red onion, ortega pepper, and a side of house BBQ sauce. 

Review

This one has a spread and two vegetable toppings (one raw, one cooked) which nicely fulfills my mandate for a โ€œcomplete sandwich.โ€ 

Unfortunately, I feel like I have to downgrade or disqualify it on the grounds of it clearly being a cheeseless cheesesteak. What this ranking presupposes is: maybe thatโ€™s not a bad thing?

The meat is cut very small like a cheesesteak, the toppings read cheesesteak, and it has the taste of being cooked on a flat top rather than smoked or flame-grilled. That being said, this is an excellent sandwich โ€“ juicy, easy to eat, not too greasy, and with just the right amount of well-chosen toppings. It feels substantial without being heavy. The lightly toasted, buttered bread is spongy, airy, and moist, with just a hint of crunch. Everything is in its place. I donโ€™t know that this qualifies as a โ€œtri-tip sandwich,โ€ but I did just discover a fantastic sandwich. 

6. BenSmokin BBQ

Exterior, Ben Smokin BBQ Tower District Fresno
Ben Smokin BBQ in the Tower District. Credit: Vince Mancini

BenSmokin BBQ took over the former Happy Star space at Palm and Olive in the Tower District in 2023. They serve the barbecue classics โ€“ ribs, pulled pork, brisket, smoked chicken, hot links โ€“ and of course tri-tip sandwiches. They also have a โ€œtri-tip mackieโ€ with mac and cheese.

Credit: Vince Mancini

The sandwich

$15.49 for small (ยผ pound), $17.49 for โ…“ pound, and $20.49 for a ยฝ pound. 

Tri-tip sandwich from Ben Smokin BBQ
Credit: Vince Mancini

Review

The meat is sliced medium thin, but you can still see the crust on the outside, which is impressive. The โ€œbarkโ€ is generally prized in tri-tip, and it doesnโ€™t get buried in this sandwich.

Ben Smokin Tri-tip sandwich, interior
Credit: Vince Mancini

The sandwich itself is very basic, but the texture of the meat is impressive โ€“ crunchy bark, with a very tender, moist interior โ€“ itโ€™s a real party in your mouth. The bread is minimal, but itโ€™s nicely butter toasted. As a whole it might be just a touch underseasoned, which is a shame because it’s gorgeous in every other way.

5. MEGA Texas Barbeque

MEGA Texas BBQ, interior. Credit: Vince Mancini / Fresnoland

Anthony and Tasha Vallejoโ€™s MEGA Texas Barbeque started in 2013, serving out of an Arco gas station. Since then, theyโ€™ve gone on to become one of the most acclaimed restaurants in Fresno, being named one of Texas Monthlyโ€™s 50 best Texas-style barbecue joints in the country in 2024 and receiving high-profile recommendations from Bill Burr. They serve Texas-style barbecue alongside some originals, like chile verde pork ribs and โ€œTexas Twinkiesโ€ (a bacon-wrapped roasted jalapeรฑo stuffed with brisket and cream cheese). 

Anthony Vallejo, left, the patriarch of MEGA Texas BBQ in Calwa. Credit: Vince Mancini / Fresnoland

The sandwich

$22. Thick-cut tri tip served on a round roll.

Review

Tri Tip sandwich from Mega Texas BBQ in Fresno, California
“Excuse me, waiter? I thought I asked for ‘extra meat.'” Credit: Vince Mancini

$22 sounds steep until the sandwich arrives and it looks like thereโ€™s a full third of a whole tri tip on there. That must beโ€ฆ $25 worth of meat? Itโ€™s also cut almost a finger thick and is standing up vertically. 

Is this even a sandwich? It seems more like an art piece โ€“ an absurd amount of tri-tip wearing a little hat. Is this how it always comes, or did I just get the rest of the tri tip because it was after the lunch rush and they were close to selling out and just decided to serve the balance? Hard to say. 

The meat itself is gorgeous, tender pink perfection with a spicy crust and a visible smoke ring. Itโ€™s a work of art. But also not really a sandwich. More a showcase for their (admittedly beautiful) meat.

4. Westwoodsย 

Westwoods BBQ, Fresno California
Credit: Vince Mancini

Opened by prolific Fresno restaurateur Dave Fansler (Pismoโ€™s and Yosemite Ranch, formerly Tahoe Joeโ€™s), Westwoodโ€™s is a massive barbecue and brewhouse opened in 2013. They serve all the barbecue classics alongside โ€œHoney Qโ€ fried chicken, salads, burgers, meatloaf, wings โ€“ basically, โ€œsomething for everyone.โ€ Itโ€™s also a โ€œplace to beโ€ for a certain demographic, like older, curiously muscular men with red faces. 

The sandwich

Tri-tip sandwich from Westwoods, Fresno, CA
The tri-tip sandwich from Westwoods. Credit: Vince Mancini

$23. Slow roasted tri tip, original BBQ sauce, toasted artisan roll.

Review

Iโ€™ve been to Westwoods a handful of times and I feel like Iโ€™ve had a completely different experience each time. I did takeout this time, and the tri-tip sandwich wasโ€ฆdelicious? 

Tri-tip sandwich from Westwoods, interior.
Credit: Vince Mancini

I did not expect it to make the top five, but here we are. Very, very tender meat, sliced into big slabs, sometimes with the grain, but still very easy to bite through. The meat is so much more tender than anywhere else that I suspect some kind of sorcery. Cooked very low and slow? If so, it still manages to retain a bit of fat (which is tough to do with tri-tip, which is generally very lean). 

The sauce is gloopy and too sweet but there isnโ€™t too much of it, so it mostly just provides some sweetness without taking over. There are grill marks on the outside of the bun, which feels very โ€œcorporate chainโ€ but is a nice touch. Itโ€™s a very good sandwich. Maybe the best thing Iโ€™ve had at Westwoods. 

3. Hogg Pitt

Outside of Hogg Pitt BBQ in Fresno, CA.
The sign at Hogg Pitt. You know you’re about to eat some good barbecue when you see a sign like this. Credit: Vince Mancini

Herman Tatum opened Hogg Pitt on Ashlan last year, after serving out of a gas station west of the 99. The Hogg Pitt uses simple salt-and-pepper seasonings and meat smoked over almond wood for their menu, which serves classic barbecue alongside some fried vegetables and seafood.

The sandwich 

$18.40. Tri tip on a bun with barbecue sauce included or on the side.

Tri-tip sandwich from Hogg Pitt BBQ in Fresno, CA
The tri-tip sandwich from Hogg Pitt. Credit: Vince Mancini

Review

When you see a sign like Hogg Pittโ€™s out front you expect to get some good barbecue, and in this case that assumption was not incorrect (the inside menu is all AI slop, which is slightly disappointing). The tri-tip is sliced on the thick side, and then, in a move unique to Hogg Pitt, cut into squares. That means some of them fall out while youโ€™re eating, but also makes them easy to bite through. I kind of like the chopped tri tip as opposed to the usual long slices. Then those go inside a hot-dog style bun (with a v-shaped cut so itโ€™s all one piece). 

The meat itself is tender, perfectly seasoned, and nicely moist. Judged by meat alone, Hogg Pitt might be number one. Truly, itโ€™s perfect. Smoky, but not overwhelmingly so (maybe thatโ€™s the almond wood), and not overly peppery. It arguably has the most naturally โ€œbeefyโ€ flavor. I donโ€™t mind the hot dog bun (the simplicity of it does allow the meat to shine, and this sandwich is really all about the meat) but it does juuust keep it out of the top spot. This is the kind of tri-tip that can go head to head with brisket. 

2. The Meat Up

The Meat Up on Herndon and West, Fresno CA
The Meat Up, on Herndon and West. Credit: Vince Mancini

The Meat Up is another new(ish) butcher shop/deli/grill, which, like Meat Market, has two locations on the north side of town. The Marks/Herndon location opened in 2020, while the Willow/Herndon location (in โ€œThe Row at Heritage Grove,โ€ next to Saizon) began operation in 2025.

If Meat Market skews a little more butcher shop, The Meat Up seems to skew a little more grill/deli, though they both do both. Thereโ€™s a sign next to the register saying you can pay in Bitcoin, which scares me a little, though I havenโ€™t seen any customers there who immediately read โ€œcrypto guy.โ€ Thankfully.

The Meat Up also does a โ€œnavel pastramiโ€ (as in, the beef belly, which is a little fattier and more marbled than regular pastrami) which is very good and I havenโ€™t seen anywhere else in town.    

The sandwich

$15. Option to add BBQ sauce or grilled onions ($1 extra). Served on a French roll (natch).

Tri-tip sandwich from The Meat Up, Fresno, CA
The tri-tip sandwich from the Meat Up. Credit: Vince Mancini

Review

This one has tall piles of thick-cut tri tip stacked four deep, which seems like it would be a chore to eat, but somehow theyโ€™re cooked perfectly โ€“ lean, but beautifully tender, with just enough chew to it to remind you that itโ€™s tri-tip. There isnโ€™t a spread, per se, but the meat seems to retain some wet marinade or mop sauce โ€“ very flavorful, tastes like pepper and possibly soy. The grilled onions are a great addition (when are they not?) and the bun is soft on the inside and glossy and a little sticky on the outside โ€“ sort of a fancy hot dog bun.

This one manages to feel both authentically tri tip and like a composed sandwich at the same time, which is difficult to do. Iโ€™m honestly shocked how good this sandwich is.

1. Mikeโ€™s Grill

Mike's Grill Kiosk Exterior
Credit: Vince Mancini

Mikeโ€™s Grill on Cedar and Herndon in the RN Market parking lot, is both a Fresno institution since 2010, and part of a proud Fresno tradition of curiously good restaurants inside tiny kiosks. The 150-square foot shack Mikeโ€™s occupies isnโ€™t quite a drive-thru (you do still have to park, which is easy because itโ€™s in the middle of a parking lot), but it does have the feel of a repurposed Photomat. A little research tells us that the kiosk itself actually began life as a Lehmanโ€™s Lock and Safe in 1980, before becoming a Cingular Wireless some time around 2002, and then something called Tailgate BBQ by 2004. 

For the past 16 years, itโ€™s become a local favorite, for tri-tip sandwiches especially, ever since Mike Sanders opened it as a second career in 2009. His two sons now work there as well, smoking tri tip over almond wood, which Sanders says was just what was most available in the area. If the place seems too small to support the volume of tri tip they sling, that’s because it is. Luckily they also have an 1800-square foot commissary kitchen in the same shopping center to help them prep.

A Fresno Bee profile from 2012 quoted a review, raving โ€œIf I got to choose what my last meal was going to be, it would be the tri-tip sandwich at this place. Itโ€™s the sandwich of my dreams.โ€

The sandwich

$12.99 for the regular, $15.99 for the โ€œjumbo,โ€ with ยฝ pound of meat. Served on a toasted, seeded French roll. (In 2015, they were still $8 and $10. Inflation, man). 

The tri-tip sandwich from Mike's Grill, Fresno, CA.
The tri-tip sandwich from Mike’s Grill. There’s magic in this sandwich. Credit: Vince Mancini

Review

Is this the best tri-tip of any of the sandwiches? Not necessarily. Itโ€™s sliced thin, doesnโ€™t have much in the way of crust, and doesnโ€™t taste as smoky as a lot of the others (which is to say, it reads more โ€œsandwichโ€ than โ€œbarbecueโ€). Like a lot of the sandwiches, it also doesnโ€™t have vegetables or a spread. But itโ€™s incredibly juicy, and the bread manages to soak up a ton of that juice, all while staying crunchy on the outside (and the sesame seeds on the outside do add that special something). 

Tri-tip sandwich from Mike's Grill, interior.
Credit: Vince Mancini

Meanwhile, the garlic toasting they do on the bread shines through in the sandwich, to the point that it almost feels like thereโ€™s an herbed garlic butter sauce. It’s not quite a chimichurri, but with the herbs, fat, and garlic that go on the bread, it’s not that distant from one either.

This is simple โ€“ at first glance, it looks like the kind of bread-and-meat-only sandwich an 8-year-old might order โ€“ but all the little touches are doing their part. It gives you a lot of what you get from a French dip (juicy, thinly-sliced beef), a Chicago Italian beef (the jus-soaked bread), or a pit beef (lean, barbecued beef cooked on the lower end of medium). All while managing to be distinctly its own thing.

I still have my quibbles about what a โ€œsandwichโ€ would entail, but this is the kind of Fresno sandwich we could be proud to have our name on.