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I’ve been both a film critic and a food writer, and in both professions it’s easy to fall into cheap superlatives. If you’re not careful, every movie becomes “the best comedy of the year,” every new restaurant serves “the best pho in town!”
Partly that’s just an honest reflection of the human instinct towards recency bias. Any great movie you see or great meal you eat, in that moment, absolutely feels like the best… whatever of all time. And so I’m always on guard not to write that as often as I feel it (while maintaining as much emotional honesty as I can).
Those caveats aside, I genuinely do wonder whether Fresno is the best city in the country for Middle Eastern sweet treats. Granted, I’ve never been to Detroit, where the pastry chef of Rumi Coffee, the subject of this week’s profile, spent some formative years. But I’ve lived all over California (San Diego, San Francisco, LA), not to mention NYC, and traveled all over the place, often specifically for the food. Not trying to write my autobiography or anything, it’s just that it feels like a decent sample size.
It’s possible (probable?) that they exist, but I haven’t been anywhere with the variety or quality of Middle Eastern baked goods that you can now get in Fresno.
YAVA opened in 2022, so it’s the OG by comparison. They have amazing cakes, pastries, pancakes, and a couple top-tier breakfasts (I get the Recover 40 every time, I’m never disappointed).
Rumi Coffee, which I profiled this week (a sister of Rumi Baklava, on West Shaw), is similar to YAVA in a lot of ways, but distinct. Where YAVA leans bread, Rumi is more phyllo-based. Both offer staggering selections of sweet and savory, and I’ve yet to have anything bad at either. And that includes the hot, prepared foods as well as the pastry case items.
Did I mention they also both serve great coffee?
Anyway, I don’t know if two great Middle Eastern bakery/coffee shops (three if you count the other Rumi bakery) equals “best in the country,” but honestly, how many do you really need if one or two are that great? I’d rather have two fantastic places than 15 above average ones. Oh well, food for thought. And stomach.
— Vince Mancini, Contributing Editor, Food
‘They had no plan.’ Former Bulle employees allege bounced paychecks, vendor issues, and declining standards as second executive chef resigns
‘A sit-and-linger kind of a space.’ Fresno’s newest coffee shop takes the Yemeni coffee trend a step further
Lunch less than $10: Your guide to the best cheap lunch spots in Fresno
This week’s local food news
Pinoy street food weekend series coming to Island Pacific this Saturday. Filipino street food? Well yeah, say no more. [Instagram]
Tacos & Taps is back, Saturday August 29th! Sometimes I prefer the tacos, other days I’m partial to the taps. Free bus. [Facebook]
A tiki bar is coming to Fresno? That’s the rumor, anyway. The timeline is still up the air, from the sounds of it, but the location is Sequoia Brewing on Champlain and Perrin. Great news for that place, which felt like it was in desperate need of a vibe, last time I visited. [The Business Journal]
The Fresno High neighborhood is getting a new breakfast and lunch spot. Essen Café is a “French modern cafe” opening near Trolley Park. When I got there, I’m going to show them I can laugh in French. Oh hon hon hon! [Fresno Bee]
Speaking of Yemeni coffee… Sana’a Café, a Bay Area/Washington State chain, is opening a Fresno chain near the Costco on West Shaw. [Fresno Bee]
The oldest family-owned business in the Central Valley. Not a lot of restaurants on here, sadly, but: The Vineyard Restaurant, CRU Winery, Cracked Pepper Bistro, Wonder Valley Ranch Resort & Conference Center and Toca Madera Winery. [The Business Journal]
— Vince Mancini, Contributing Editor, Food
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