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Over the course of my life spent thinking way too much about food, I’ve developed a theory. It goes something like this: if you’re ever faced with an unfamiliar restaurant or cuisine and don’t know how to order, look for their version of a dumpling (ravioli, manti, momo, empanada, pierogi, samosa, whatever). Dumplings tend to pack the most flavors and signature ingredients into the smallest packages, assembled lovingly by the chef with the nimblest hands. Call it “dumpling theory” (or don’t, I admit it’s not the catchiest name).
This is one of the rare ideas that I’ve put out into the universe and the universe actually seemed to be listening. Dumpling-centric restaurants are now decidedly on trend.
We can credit xiao long bao, aka soup dumplings, for getting us here. That’s a dumpling with gelatinized broth inside that turns into a miniature, dough-wrapped meatball soup when you cook it. Xiao long bao taking off is probably the reason we now have multiple dumpling restaurants in Fresno (see this week’s Dumpling Showdown).
It’s definitely my peculiar pathology to complain about a thing I specifically demanded to see in the world, but I don’t know that soup dumplings are my favorite thing at the trendy soup dumpling places. I’m kind of into the Sichuan wontons, with that sneaky-spicy chili oil, or the potstickers, with the beautiful lacy crust on the bottom (or on the top, when you flip them for presentation). I love a dumpling, but I’m not sure I need one to squirt in my mouth? Feels a little gimmicky. Though if that’s the gimmick that gets us to more dumpling places, so be it. It’s okay to let soup dumplings be your gateway dumpling, I guess I’m saying.
Elsewhere: your guide to sub-$10 lunch, Hmong strawberry stands, and Fresno’s most award-winning tacos.
— Vince Mancini, Contributing Editor, Food
This week’s local food news
Basque Fest, this Saturday at Campo Farms in Caruthers! They’re doing dancing, Pelota, a lamb barbecue at noon, and chorizo sandwiches at 4 pm. Plus, beans, salad, lamb stew, basque salsa, hard jack cheese, bread, and lamb loin chops. You had me at “lamb barbecue.” [Facebook]
Jimmy Pardini’s new sandwich joint, Strada, didn’t have a menu yet when we toured his pasta operation at Willow Osteria for a profile, but it opened this past week. Lines were long, but we’ll get there soon. In the meantime, I’ll be daydreaming about the schiacciata I had in Lucca. [Instagram]
Bethany Clough has your rundown of “Bulle,” Fresno’s fanciest new restaurant, complete with $45 cocktails and $69 rock fish. I’m a little wary of people describing their food as “upscale” rather than “good,” but I’m certainly intrigued. [Fresno Bee]
The California Restaurant Association names their Best of the Valley Restaurants. Lots of old favorites on the list, plus a few new ones I haven’t tried yet. [Business Journal]
Libelula has a crab po’boy. Do you need more po’boys in your life? I sure do. Every time I go to Mad Duck I wonder why they don’t put one on the menu. I just want to take a big bite and bellow “Rem-ou-LADE” in my worst Cajun accent. My wife hates it. [Instagram]
BBQ is coming to Shaw and Maroa. “Papa Joe’s Spokesbelly” is coming to the Shaw and Maroa space where Tacos El Cabezón posted up for a while. Owner Joe Avila (presumably the one with the belly) has been doing catering and pop-ups for the past two years. Speaking of Tacos El Cabezón… [Fresno Bee]
Tacos El Cabezón is open again. Is that the shortest turn-around ever between “having to be located by the police” to “open for business?” The restaurant’s most recent post describes “negativity” and people trying to tear them down, but we’re just trying to keep up with the story over here. [Instagram]
Here’s the recipe:
— Vince Mancini, Contributing Editor, Food
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